There are many forms of vitamin c used in skin care products today. L-Ascorbic Acid is probably the most well known form of vitamin c, it has been used in skin care for the longest, but does that mean it gives the best results? Let’s find out!
I remember when Cellex-C first arrived to the Australian market, it promised to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and more! They used l-ascorbic acid and so did the many competitors who quickly followed. The problem with l-ascorbic acid is that it is very unstable, so it needs to be placed into an acidic base solution, which often leads to skin irritation. This is why many companies use colouring to make their products brown in colour, so you don’t notice the normally clear solutions turning brown from oxidizing, which leaves your product inactive and ineffective. Another issue is it’s tendency to oxidise in follicles, causing blackheads in skins prone to them. It can help to provide anti-oxidant protection to the skin, reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles, improve pigmentation and overall suppleness of the skin.
SO while we can get some benefits from l-ascorbic acid, the fact that people with sensitive or problem skin cannot use it, it has a short shelf-life & is highly unstable, we think there are better options out there!
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAC for short) is a derivative of vitamin c, it is converted into vitamin c in the skin. The antioxidant properties of MAC are much less than l-ascorbic acid; however it is a much more stable ingredient. This means it doesn’t need to be in a strong acid formulation, it doesn’t oxidise as fast, making it a better choice for sensitive skin & problem skin. It is one of the more hydrating vitamin c derivatives.
This is a super-stable oil-soluble form of Vitamin C for increased efficacy and skin comfort. Vitamin C Isopalmitate has superior skin-penetration power with each 1% equivalent to around 10% of pure ascorbic acid. The maximum the skin can metabolise in any one product is 20-30% Ascorbic Acid.
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